The Royal Mile

Edinburgh Castle is the most famous place in Scotland-a proper castle, with winding stairs, ruined walls, immense ramparts and lots of hiding places for children to enjoy. As if that weren't enough, its crowning glory is the superb view of the city all around. Thanks to the romantic sensibilities of the Victorians, who were responsible for the restoration of Edinburgh's most ancient holy place, St Margaret's Chapel, and since the construction in 1927 of the awe-inspiring Scottish National War Memorial, the castle has also become something of a symbol of the nation's spiritual life.

Edinburgh Castle has now really come into its own as a national monument run by Historic Scotland and as the country's most popular tourist attraction. It does become overcrowded in the summer, but remains very good value for money, and a visit here in any weather is unlikely to disappoint.

As well as a melodramatic but informative self-guided audio tour, your ticket buys access to the Honours of Scotland (the nation's crown jewels), St Margaret's Chapel, three military museums, many parts of the castle itself, including the Great Hall and Queen Mary's apartments, a perfectly preserved Victorian military prison, and a curious pet cemetery. The War Memorial on its own can be visited free on application, as well as by ticket holders.

The Esplanade-the old parade ground-makes a very grandly sited car park with magnificent views. During the Military Tattoo in August, the massive banks of seating temporarily erected here offer even more impressive views to ticket holders. Looking south from the Esplanade, you will have the best possible view of the extraordinary building which is George Heriot's School.

Avoid being run down by one of the frequent tour buses executing sweeping turns, by sticking to the edge and mulling over some of the memorials. Most commemorate soldiers of different regiments who fell in the wars in South Africa. At the entrance to Castlehill is a statue of Field Marshal Earl Haig and on the left, is a modern memorial to the witches burned here until as recently as 1722.

The impressive 19th-century gateway to the castle is guarded by two sentries and statues of Robert the Bruce and William Wallace. Look out for the plaque on the gateway which commemorates the section of castle rock, now buried beneath the esplanade, which was legally granted to Nova Scotia in Canada by Charles I and has never been taken back. Above the gate an inscription reads 'Nemo Me Impune Lacessit', the royal motto that is also engraved on Scottish pound coins, which roughly translates as 'no one messes with me and gets away with it.' The army joke is that here it simply means 'mind your head'.

Buy a ticket and enter the castle through the main gate.

St Margaret's Chapel

St Margaret's Chapel stands in a spectacular position commanding the best views northeast from the highest point on the castle rock. It's a beautifully simple building, one of the smallest churches in Britain and the oldest in Edinburgh.